Slot Ranch

There is nobody out there that supports the 1/43 slot racing segment better than Steve from http://www.ranch-design.com. On his web site, you can find after market parts of all sorts: aluminum wheels, silicon tires, high-performance rubber tires (in collaboration with KD tires), axles, gearing (pinions and crowns), lexan bodies of all sorts and now a brand new Aluminum Chassis Kit.
• At only $10 the chassis kit comes loaded with all kinds of components. But in addition to the kit you will need wheels + tires, a motors, and obviously a body. In this example, I will use Ranch Design aluminum set-screw wheels, Ranch Design silicon tires, a G9330 motor (from Electronic Goldmine), and a plastic Chevy SSR body also from ranch Design.

• After opening the plastic Ziploc bag, the following components can be found:
o 2 part aluminum chassis pan
o 2 axles
o 2 bushings
o 8 screws
o 4 washers
o 1 Guide with braids
o 1 plastic piece for mounting the guide

• First take the front part of the chassis (as seen on picture below): Using pliers or even better a vise, gently fold the front side tabs. To make sure you have them bent up at 90 degrees, take one of the two axles, and make sure it slides freely through the lines up pairs of holes in the chassis.


• Repeat the same process for the chassis pan sides. Then, using 2 of the screws, mount the plastic front piece that will eventually hold the guide. Make sure to not over-tighten the 2 screws, then verify again that an axle moves freely through the front holes. It should fall straight off when you turn the chassis 90 degrees on its side.


• Then, take the rear part of the chassis: Using pliers or a vise, gently fold the rear side tabs and the motor mounting tab. Verify visually, that all tables are at 90 degrees up from the chassis pan.

• Insert the bushings gently into their rear mounts. You may have to pry the tabs open a bit to insert the bushings as shown. Once again, take an axle and make sure it moves VERY freely through the bushings. Then, using a pair of pliers, tighten gently the bushing mounts so the bushings do not fall off their mounts.

• At this point, you have actually performed the most critical parts already. Slide the rear of the chassis over the front and using 4 screws and washers, assemble the two pieces at the desired wheel base. Before you lock the screws down, mount your rear and front wheels, your guide and verify that the body just fits right over the chassis.

• Insert the motor on top of the chassis. Using the last two screws, assemble the motor on the tab.

• Now comes in some of the tuning. As shown in the pictures below, insert spares between the crown and the bushings/mounts on the axle to make sure the crown gear and the motor pinion mesh just right, not too tight or too loose. To do this, you may have to take the motor out and/or the wheels and rear axles out as well. Once satisfied with your spacers, reassemble the motors, rear axle and wheels.

• Time for some careful gluing (see arrows on picture). Skip this if you want to be able to take your assembly apart easily.
o First, drop some very small amount of CA glue on top of the bushings in their housing right at the top (see 1 on picture)
o Second, drop a very small amount of CA glue right where at the crown gear and the rear axle to help the crown fear not move and not apply too much pressure against the pinion (see 2 on picture).

• Up to the guide: Add 2 nuts and a washer (I used what I had in my shop) right over the shaft of the guide. This will guarantee minimal play in the guide and also add weight right on top of the guide and help it stay planted in the slot when running. Procure two soft wires (silicon insulating preferably, very soft). Solder one side of the wire to the motor tabs. The other side of the wires can simply be insert through the openings in the guide where the braids go through (alternatively they could also be soldered).


• Time to assemble the body. Measure out from the chassis where the body mounting posts should be. Cut them to length so the body fits just right over the chassis when simply sitting on top of the chassis. Place some blue painter’s tape inside the body (this is to protect the thin plastic body from direct exposure to glue). Mount the body posts to the chassis and flip it over the body. Drop some rapid (5 minutes) 2-part epoxy (or some shoe goop, or house goop, JB weld, or any adhesive except CA glue). Once the epoxy is cured, you are done and you have yourself a great no magnet racer !!!!!


• Before you put the car on the track, a little lubing using plastic compatible oil (because of the guide and the crown that are both plastic).
o All 4 points where the axles go into the bushings and the body
o One very small drop on the motor axle behind the pinion
o One drop or two on the guide shaft
o Add some lithium grease or equivalent on the pinion to crown gear meshing to help run smoothly
This kit from ranch Design is simple and well designed. As usual with chassis kits that are not plastic mass produced, one needs to pay a lot of attention to all the small steps involved in getting the assembly just right, but the Ranch Design chassis is well worth the price and it sure delivers !!!

• Slot Ranch Casino offers new players a 100% welcome bonus up to £50 with a first deposit. Slot Ranch Casino launched in 2016 and powered by Dragonfish, NetEnt and more.
• Slot Ranch has a good range of games and some decent opening promotions, but we can’t help but think they could have gone a little further with their theming! It’s a simple site to navigate with no unnecessary bells or whistles, and playing at this site is a simple, relaxing experience, even if the site isn’t particularly original in its.

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Few, if any, slot canyons in the world can come close to rivaling the awe-inspiring curves and undulations of the sandstone slot canyons near Page, Arizona.

Slot Ranch is a great choice for slot game fans with a strong choice of over 250 different slots, including many of the most popular games of the moment such as Starburst and Jack and the Beanstalk. The site has an attractive layout and design with the cowboy theme.

The Page, Arizona slot canyons offer a one-of-a-kind experience for all visitors. Though popular amongst hiking enthusiasts and professional photographers, the canyons are beautiful enough (and accessible enough) to appeal to just about any crowd. I mean, you’ve seen the pictures, right? Who wouldn’t want to see this for themselves?! Please note that all four of the canyons below require a Navajo guide to accompany you...don't go adventuring off on your own!

1. Upper Antelope Canyon

Typically visited by day, as pictured above, this slot canyon can also be visited at night through a tour with Lionel Bigthumb; your adventure may yield some photos similar to the below image. Upper Antelope Canyon, also known as Tsé bighánílíní — “the place where water runs through rocks”, is typically the most crowded of the slot canyons near Page, Arizona for a number of reasons. For one, this canyon has the largest caverns, meaning that it can accommodate even the largest of tour groups. Additionally, the entire canyon is at ground level, so no climbing is involved to get to or through the canyon. This makes it accessible to just about everyone. You won’t have any trouble finding a great tour that visits this canyon, but know that you won’t be alone. If you’re impatient with crowds, this might not be the best destination for you. If you are hoping to catch a photo of the canyon without people in it, you DEFINITELY have to sign up for a photography tour. Check out Mark Handy's post for more details.

2. Lower Antelope Canyon

If you only have time to visit one of Page’s famous slot canyons, Lower Antelope Canyon has my vote. Known as “Hazdistazí” (meaning “spiral rock arches”) to some, Lower Antelope Canyon brings the most bang for your buck if you have limited time. Even though it is only a quarter-mile long, its landscape is dense in amazing features, including some of the most iconic undulating formations in the rock walls, along with amazing lighting and coloring. Even amateur photographers can take incredible photographs in this canyon! Check out Mark Handy's post for more details.

3. Rattlesnake Canyon

A tributary to the larger Antelope Wash, Rattlesnake Canyon is not as tall or as long as either Upper Antelope Canyon or Lower Antelope Canyon. It also doesn’t have the famous “light beam” phenomenon that those canyons are known for. However, the color quality of the rocks, the superb lighting, the unique formations, and the winding passageways of this canyon give it a feel and appearance that is spectacular in its own right. Factoring in a number of elements, I have to admit this canyon is my favorite! Check out Eric Harris's post for more details.

4. Mountain Sheep Canyon

Slot Enchantment

As its name suggests, Mountain Sheep Canyon offers a rugged feel and more strenuous hike than the other slot canyons. The trek is longer than it is for the other canyons (about three-quarters of a mile), and there is quite a bit of scaling ladders along the way. The ladders are all secured to the rock, but a few of the climbs might be enough to make you a bit nervous…especially with younger children. Also, beware that this canyon is not immediately adjacent to the Antelope Wash, where the others are located; you will have a bit more adventurous (read: bumpy) ride to get to Mountain Sheep Canyon. Check out my post for more details.

For more details, history, and photography tips on the Page Slot Canyons, check out this post.

We want to acknowledge and thank the past, present, and future generations of all Native Nations and Indigenous Peoples whose ancestral lands we travel, explore, and play on. Always practice Leave No Trace ethics on your adventures and follow local regulations. Please explore responsibly!

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